Studio Cynefin Blog

Jackie Stephens is a handweaver and textile designer based in Cheshire, UK where she runs Studio Cynefin from a converted cotton mill on the Macclesfield Canal, offering tuition and workshops alongside community projects and research.

‘BOG’ Coat

This design traces its roots back to the Iron Age, its name derives from the peat bog in which it was found preserved in Denmark and is constructed from a single rectangle with just two seams.

I first came across the design during a visit to the V&A Museum in London back in 2018 at the ‘Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion’ exhibition. Here it was presented as a flat piece of patterned paper which visitors were invited to cut and fold into a ‘one seam’ coat.

My prototype is woven in once piece with slits arranged where the cuts are needed to avoid cutting the fabric off-loom. Two seams are needed joining the sleeve and front edges.

Schematic for weaving

As a first test it worked fine although the sizing was too small for half scale. Next I’d like to add deep pockets, possibly by using a doubleweave structure, and some more design interest. Shaping options seem limited without adding darts off-loom, but I’ll mull on that.

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